If you have ever watched a saw blade "wobble" to a
stop, and wondered what was causing the problem, this test is for you! When
I was designing the A-LINE-IT , I wanted to give you the best diagnostic
tool in the industry. The following technique is one that we developed to
do that no other alignment system in the country can; check your arbor flange
and saw blades for runout. This technique, soon to be awarded a patent, is
made possible by the Spring and Nut assembly provided with each A-LINE-IT
System. Assemble the A-LINE-IT as shown in the photo, and position it
into the miter groove of the saw. I would recommend that if the threads of
your arbor point toward the right, (you have a left-tilt saw) I would position
the A-LINE-IT in the left groove, as shown in the photo above. If the
threads point toward the left, (you have a right-tilt saw) I would position
the A-LINE-IT in the right groove of the saw. By doing these tests in
this manner, you should have room to get your hand near the arbor without
interfering with the dial indicatoTr.
following steps should be taken to assemble the A-LINE-IT to test runout
in arbor flanges and saw blades.
1. Insert the spring into the knob, and "back out" the nylon
locking screws to clear the center hole in the nut.
2. Place a blade on the arbor, and install the blade washer. Do not
install the factory supplied arbor nut.
3. Place the spring/nut assembly onto the arbor shaft, and press the nut
toward the saw blade to fully compress the spring. Tighten the nylon locking
screws to hold the spring and nut on the arbor shaft of the saw. When done
properly, the spring keeps the saw blade firmly biased against the arbor
4. Elevate the arbor to its highest point, and then lower it about 1û4".
5. Assemble the A-LINE-ITÔ as shown in the photo, and position it
into the guide slot of the saw. Position the tip of the dial indicator as
close as possible (without making contact) to the top of the table saw.
6. Zero the dial indicator. To check to insure the blade is firmly biased
against the flange, push the blade away from the flange, and then release
it. If the dial indicator consistently returns to zero, thespring and nut
are properly installed. If the reading "drifts" when the blade
is released, more tension should be placed on the spring.
following procedure allows you to test the runout produced by the arbor flange
1. Place a small scrap of wood (Id use something 1/8" thick by
3û4" wide by 6"-8" long) directly in front of the blade (with
long dimension parallel to the blade).
2. Slide the piece toward the blade. Center (and hold) the 3û4" in
the gullet between two of the blade teeth.
3. Position the A-LINE-IT so the tip of the indicator is as close
as possible to one of the tips on the saw blade.
4. Grasp the spring/nut assembly, and rotate the arbor shaft in the normal
direction of blade rotation. (The tooth on the blade should catch on the
wood scrap, stopping blade rotation.)
5. With the blade held in this position, slowly rotate the arbor of the
saw. The dial indicator will show you the amount of runout produced near
the tips of the blade.
Though I have never seen "factory specs" on this subject,
I would begin to be concerned if this reading exceeded .004" - .005".
(Four to five thousandths of an inch)
following procedure allows you to test the runout in your saw blades.
1. Slide the A-LINE-IT to a position that places the tip of the dial
indicator just inside the gullets (notches between the teeth) of the saw
blade. (It should be at a position that will allow you to rotate the saw
blade without the indicator tip getting stuck in one of these gullets as
you rotate the blade).
2. Grasp the spring/nut assembly, and hold it with one hand.
3. Use your other hand to slowly rotate the saw blade. (Be sure to take
your hand off the blade frequently to insure that you are getting accurate
readings as you rotate the blade.)
A high quality blade should be expected to run with no more than .003"
(three thousandths of an inch) runout as it is rotated through a 360 degree
test, while some low-to-mid quality blades may run in excess of .010".
I highly recommend the use of a top quality blade if you expect top quality
cuts from your table saw.
NOTE: By marking a "low" spot on the arbor and a "high"
spot on the saw blade (or vice versa) you can minimize the total amount of
runout produced by placing the two marks together. This also gives a consistent
kerf width, as long as you always place the two marks together every time
you install the saw blade.